Month: February 2020

On the off chance that you ask how troublesome this framework to put in practice is, the answer is amazingly straightforward. Not just will you have the capacity to collect everything without anyone else’s input, without the assistance of your family or neighbors, however you can likewise put it wherever you need. In the event that you move starting with one house then onto the next, then you just dismantle the framework and bring it with you! What can be simpler than that?

The real process in aquaponics is air circulation. In the event that the water is legitimately circulated air through, then your fish will be glad and your plants will develop regularly. Then again, if the water is not legitimately oxygenated, then there are not very many risks that your homestead will get by for more than a few days.

The reasons why air circulation is so paramount are very basic and straightforward for everyone. Most importantly, the broke down oxygen is essential for the fish to relax. Despite the fact that the fish live submerged regardless they have to inhale and much the same as if there should arise an occurrence of different creatures, they require oxygen to survive. When they need oxygen they bite the dust, subsequently the equalization from your aquaponic framework is lost and in a matter of days your plants will begin to get yellowish and in the end cease to exist.

As this was insufficient, the fish fecal matter are deteriorated and changed from poisonous alkali into valuable nitrates in the vicinity of oxygen. In this way, if the water is not legitimately circulated air through the fish crap won’t be changed, the plants will have nothing to consume, while the fish will kick the bucket inebriated with alkali. This is not an extremely charming point of view, isn’t it? This is the reason you will need to screen the nature of your water every single day and have a go down arrangement on the off chance that the force gets off and the pneumatic machines will never again have the capacity to capacity. This is the main path through which you can spare your aquaponic framework and make it work for a long time of time. Your plants and your fish will thank you for that!

Incurved and Pompon

There are three main incurved chrysanthemum classifications: regular, irregular and intermediate. These are further divided into early and late bloomers. The main characteristics of incurved chrysanthemums are their distinctive, globe-shaped blossoms and upward and inward curving petals. Regular incurved varieties have tight, densely packed petals on blossoms up to 6 inches in size. Irregular and intermediate types have much larger blossoms of up to 8 inches. Irregular varieties have densely packed petals at the top of the flower and slightly looser petals around the base and sides. Intermediate types have even, moderately densely packed petals all over. Pompon chrysanthemums tend to have much smaller blooms, averaging between 1 and 3 inches. Pompons are another globular type but the flowers tend to have a combination of upward and slightly downward curving petals.

Reflex, Decorative and Indeterminate

Reflex blooms have loose, downward curving petals, and the wide, 6-inch blooms have a flat top with a hidden center. Decorative types are among the most common varieties grown as houseplants or in containers. The blooms are around 5 to 6 inches, loose and fairly open with either loosely upward or downward arcing leaves. Due to the variety of possible petal formations, decorative chrysanthemums are often classed in the indeterminate category. Indeterminate varieties are those that do not fit correctly into any other classification, having irregular blooms or bizarre petal and foliage shapes, and those flowers that possess characteristics of multiple classifications.

Spider, Quills and Thistles

Spiders do not have the traditional petal associated with chrysanthemums but have long, drooping, tubular florets with a curl at the ends. The florets radiate out and downward from a large, flat center. Quill types have many short, straight tubular florets with a closed center. Thistle varieties also have tubular florets but have a wild, ragged, unkempt appearance. The florets appear randomly placed and vary considerably in length.

Spoon, Anemone, Single and Semi-Double

Spoon, anemone, single and semi-double varieties all share a number of characteristics, all appearing similar to the daisy. Spoons are wide, loose, flat flowers with long, thin petals radiating out and arcing slightly downward from a small yellow center. The petals have small, rounded dips at the ends, making them appear somewhat spoonlike. Single varieties have a single layer of tapered petals surrounding a bright yellow center, much like a large daisy. Semi-doubles are similar to singles but have multiple petal layers. Anemones have the outward radiating, tapered petals but also have a large, raised center covered in small, tightly layered florets.

The Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood are from the macrophylla family. These include Nikko Blue, Endless Summer and many other pinks and blues. When I say they bloom on old wood I mean that they are busy right now setting buds for next summer. So next year when they take off growing in the spring, the flower shoots will actually emerge from the older wood, the wood that was produced this year.

The hydrangeas that bloom on new wood are typically the white hydrangeas like Annabelle and Paniculata Grandiflora (PG). They put on new growth in the spring and then later in the summer the new blooms are actually produced right at the end of that new growth. That’s why the Annabelle and PG are such prolific bloomers. They set flower buds and almost immediately those buds produce big, beautiful, abundant flowers. Almost nothing can go wrong with their blooming sequence.

But with the Blue and Pink Hydrangeas (macrophyllas) all kinds of things can go wrong with the flower buds. Since the flower buds are produced in August and September they have to make it through the harsh winter before they can bloom. The flower buds can be damaged by extreme cold.

Pruning? You should prune macrophylla hydrangeas right after they bloom, before they have a chance to start making new flower buds. Annabelle and PG hydrangea and other hydrangeas that flower on new wood can be pruned during the late fall, winter or early spring. Once they start growing in the spring, do not do any pruning until after they bloom.

One of the most popular new varieties on the market is “Endless Summer Hydrangea” and it is known to bloom more than once in a season. It’s in the macrophylla family and sets flower buds on old wood, but it is also known to set more buds and produce flowers during the growing season. It should still be treated as a hydrangea that blooms on old wood.

So… with all of that said, if your hydrangea did not bloom then the flower buds might have gotten pruned off, or more likely the buds were damaged over the winter.

All plants have specific needs for sun, shade, water etc. but small gardens, because of the restricted design of their layout, will exacerbate these needs. If you place the wrong plant in the wrong environment or simply buy a plant without doing your homework, you are setting yourself up for a lot of unnecessary heartache.

When I think of some examples of small gardens, I envision the front and rear yards in a Townhouse community. Planting are usually crammed together in very small beds, the back yard is usually enclosed by a fence allowing for a small lawn, and the soil is usually very poor and void of organic matter, because it was pulled from below ground during construction.

Since the houses are also crammed together, the roof drains, along with every neighbors roof drain, empties directly into the yard. With each yard having a fence or a neighbors fence and so on, airflow into these areas is extremely limited, allowing for the moisture to persist and cause not only major problems for the plants but also the siding on the home. Sound familiar?

Because of the potential problems mentioned above, it is imperative that you take some time to observe your garden at different times of the day and read up on the plants you like.

It’s important to know;

• when your plants will be in the sun or shade during the day; morning sun is a cooler sun and a great spot for partial shade to shade loving plants; afternoon sun is a hot sun and plants here must be able to withstand intense heat
• what your soil is made of- clay, loam (good organic mix) or sand – Clay soil stays wet longer and requires much less watering. Clay soil is the main culprit in the sickly, yellow leafed plantings that you see in the many commercial landscapes, the plants are simply drowning – Loam or Sandy soils, drain quicker and require more water and weekly monitoring
• if you have wet areas or any drainage issues- where do your roof gutters drain; shady areas will remain wet longer and require less watering
• if you have large trees shading beds, they will block rain from reaching the ground; plants here will need more water.
• plants installed under a tree, in the root zone, will need more water and fertilizer as the tree will absorb most of it.
• if you have wind issues… fences can decrease or increase wind and possibly dry out plants

Once you understand the different situations your garden may present over time, you can begin choosing the plants that will flourish with you over the years. Strive for a low maintenance gardening experience by installing plants that mature slow and fill in over time.

Adding shrubs like a Butterfly Bush, Spirea or Knock Out Rose not only increase seasonal color but also help keep your landscape manageable because you cut back or rejuvenate these shrubs every spring, reducing their size. Many perennials and ornamental grasses will have the same effect

By choosing plants that are low maintenance (slow growers, require less water and fertilizer, little to no disease or insect problems, rejuvenate or cut back every year), 95% of your yearly gardening is completed during your spring cleanup.

With that thought in mind, I recommend shrubs and perennials not to exceed 4-5 feet tall/ 3-4 feet wide and trees no taller than 15 feet. I also like to avoid any quick growing plants that involve maintenance pruning during the season.

The plantings below are mostly insect and disease free, require very little moisture once established and need very little maintenance during the year. All will bring years of enjoyment to you and your garden when placed in the environment mentioned.

Purchasing the seeds

When purchasing a seed that you intend to train for bonsai, it is important to note the name of the seeds. Many sellers attempt to sell special bonsai tree seeds for a significantly higher than normal price. Don’t fall for this trick; remember that bonsai are grown from normal seeds that should not cost more than usual. We buy our seeds from Bonsaiofnewyork.com, where they are listed as bonsai tree seeds but are not overpriced.

Get ready to plant

While you are waiting to receive your seeds, you can gather your seed starting materials. These materials can vary greatly depending on how many seeds you intend to grow, and what your expectations are.

Soil

The first thing you will need is the most important ingredient to grow a plant: dirt. This can be obtained by going out behind your house with a shovel. If you are looking for better results, picking up some seed starting soil from your local gardening store will increase success. Seeds are susceptible to diseases that are found regularly in outdoor soil. Seed starting soil has been baked at a high temperature to become a sterile soil, without the added bacteria. If you are growing a small amount of seeds, backyard dirt is fine. A few of the seeds are likely to survive regardless of what soil you use.

Tray

Next, you will need somewhere to put that soil. Depending on the amount of seeds you intend to grow, you can use anything from a generic plastic cup with holes poked in the bottom to a divided seed tray. Anything that will hold the soil in place and allow excess water to escape will do the trick. Use of a humidity dome is recommended if you use a seedling tray; this will help the seedlings absorb water, since their root systems have not fully developed.

Location

After you have the supplies ready, you will need to pick a good location to plant your seeds. Whether you are growing an indoor or outdoor tree, we recommend that you plant the seeds indoors. This will let you fully control the environment while the trees are still developing. Make sure this location gets a good amount of sunlight.

Planting the seeds

Once you have your soil in a tray or pot, you can plant your seeds in the soil. Plant your seeds at the recommended depth on the package. Each tree variety does best if grown at a different depth, so ensure that you pay attention to the package. After you have placed the seeds in the dirt and covered them up, water the seeds and place them in the location your choice.

Water and wait…

Keep an eye on your seeds to ensure that the soil does not dry out. When you see the top of the soil start to look dry, it’s time to water. Depending on the species you chose, it could take days or weeks for the seeds to sprout. After they sprout, keep watering as normal until you see the first set of true leaves. The first leaves that seedlings produce are not “true leaves.” These are just leaves that are in the shape of the seed that held nutrients for the tree to begin its life. The true leaves will be the first set of leaves that are the correct shape for the species. After you see these, transplant the plant into a pot or cup if they are not already in one. Continue to water the trees and fertilize in accordance with species recommendations until winter.

First winter (if outside)

Your seedlings should be overwintered for the first winter. Overwintering is the process of protecting the tree from its first winter. This will give it a better chance to survive without any issues. Bury your pot into the soil, with mulch up to the first branch. This will give your tree the best chance of survival by keeping the roots warm. You should never leave your bonsai tree outdoors during the winter without the bottom of the pot in the ground, as this will allow the roots to freeze and kill the tree. If possible, protect the tree from the cold wind as well. Another possibility is to keep your tree in an unheated shed or garage.